The city’s Spring/Summer 2024 showcase — which begins with Peter Do’s Helmut Lang debut and ends with Raul Lopez’s homegrown-and-hyped Luar — is noticeably slimmer than past iterations. Around 70 designers are on the official schedule, down from over 100 last September, including absences from CFDA chair Thom Browne and Do’s namesake line.
The dominant sentiment around New York Fashion Week over the past decade has been that it’s lacking in comparison with its European counterparts in Milan and Paris. That’s been underscored by the fact that several standout American designers, once they reach a certain level of success, begin showing in Paris; beyond Do, The Row, Vaquera and Rick Owens are all on the schedule in Paris. Meanwhile, other New York-born standouts like Marc Jacobs and Telfar opt to show off-schedule or not at all, and Tom Ford, once the week’s centre of gravity, is headed to Milan under its new creative director Peter Hawkings.
Even so, there’s still lots to look out for. Ralph Lauren is on the schedule for the first time since September 2019; Jonathan Cohen and Philip Lim are also returning.
Read more on what else to watch for this NYFW. #linkinbio