Transitional, studio-designed collections are often unremarkable affairs. Not so with Louis Vuitton’s spring-summer 2023 collection, an exuberant outing signed by the late Virgil Abloh’s design team.

Set on a giant ramp that was half children’s racecar track, half Yellow Brick Road, the show opened with a joyful performance by the iconic marching band of Florida A&M University, a historically Black institution in Tallahassee, followed by a collection that mixed covetable wardrobe items like embellished letterman jackets and tangerine monogram tracksuits with decadent couture.

There were Impressionism-inspired tapestry ensembles, swirly leather motocross fits, ruffled tulle skirts and even a giant sound system-shaped backpack. The show was an emotional tribute to Abloh, but a deftly mixed score by Benji B was a bit too on the nose when it looped back to a chanted refrain of “Long live Virgil.”