But while the collection was a vision of next-generation “corpcore,” perhaps the most modern element was a trio of limited-edition jackets made using a new fibre designed to replace polyester and other oil-based materials.
The products — two trench coats (pictured) and a bomber jacket — are the latest experiment in a long-term strategic partnership between Boss-parent Hugo Boss and HeiQ AeoniQ, a material innovation business that has engineered a cellulose-based yarn it says is endlessly recyclable, biodegradable and able to compete with fossil-fuelled textiles on performance.
Despite growing investment in buzzy material innovations, most are still years away from reaching the kind of scale that would allow them to compete with polyester’s low prices while matching its technical capabilities.
Exactly how the industry addresses this challenge is a question of growing concern, as the tension between brands’ high-profile commitments to curb their environmental impact and ongoing reliance on oil-based plastic fibres — a group of materials whose path to dominance has fuelled the explosive growth of cheap, disposable fashion — faces mounting scrutiny.
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