Jonathan Anderson has perfected the art of attitude in fashion. His clothes often call for a gesture – or the suggestion of one. In the women’s collection he showed for Loewe on Friday morning, models walked with fists tucked determinedly into the pockets of super-high waisted pants. Or they stuffed their hands into slash pockets set high on the stomach of tweedy blazers. Or they firmly grasped the straps of shoulder bags into which one tail of their long leather coats had been tucked. Or they simply kept their hands in their pockets, perhaps resisting the urge to pull out the long pin which kept the waistband of their baggy shorts in place. Later, there was a long dress which sported a fold of fabric at the front also held by a pin. What kind of chaos would ensue if you removed it? It felt like the kind of question a conceptual artist might pose. Which meant it fit right in with Anderson’s scheme of things. He has developed one of the most riveting careers in fashion by artfully subverting banality. That pin? So common and yet, in this context, so challenging.

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✍️ @TimBlanks
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